Phool dev Shahni, like his father and grandfather before him, once earned his livelihood by diving into 8-foot-deep muddy ponds to harvest makhana, or lotus seeds. “I used to dive in 7 to 8 feet of water for hours a day—coming to the surface to breathe after 8 to ten minutes,” Shahni recalls. The seeds, known for their nutritional value, are highly prized and used in various dishes, including kheer and flour.

In Bihar, where Shahni lives, 90% of the world’s makhana is grown. Traditionally, harvesting these seeds was an exhausting process, requiring divers like Shahni to navigate the murky, thorn-covered plants at the bottom of ponds, leading to cuts and skin issues.

However, recent changes in cultivation methods have revolutionized the industry. Farmers now grow the plants in fields with much shallower water, making the harvesting process less grueling and significantly more profitable. Shahni, who now works in just a foot of water, can make twice as much money in a day. “It’s still hard work, but I am proud of my tradition. I have three children, and I will make sure that one of my sons continues the legacy of working in a fox nut field,” he says.

This shift in cultivation was driven by innovations spearheaded by Dr. Manoj Kumar, a Senior Scientist at the National Research Centre for Makhana (NRCM). About a decade ago, Dr. Kumar recognized the limitations of expanding cultivation in deep ponds and began developing techniques for growing makhana in shallow fields. This method has rapidly gained popularity, with the area used for fox nut farming tripling over the last decade.

Dr. Kumar’s innovations have not only made makhana cultivation as straightforward as other land-based crops but also introduced a more resilient and productive seed variety, significantly boosting farmers’ incomes. Additionally, this method has helped farmers cope with the region’s increasingly unpredictable weather patterns and floods.

Dhirendra Kumar, another farmer, decided to switch his family farm to makhana cultivation after years of losing money due to flood-damaged crops. “The results were amazing. In the first year, I made a profit of £340 [US$432],” he says. Now, he grows lilies on 17 acres of land and employs about 200 local women to sow the seeds. “My aim is to provide jobs to as many farmers as possible so they don’t leave farming because of uncertainty in agriculture,” Kumar says.

The innovations extend beyond the fields. Madhubani Makhana, a leading cultivator and processor of makhana, has developed a machine in partnership with the NRCM to roast and pop the seeds, a process traditionally done by hand in a laborious and risky manner. “This has helped us increase the quality and the production of fox nuts,” says Shambhu Prasad, the founder and chief executive of Madhubani Makhana.

Despite these advancements, Prasad does not anticipate a significant drop in makhana prices due to the rising global demand. “Given the rising global demand for makhana, significant increases in production will be necessary to achieve any substantial reduction in prices,” he says.

Dhirendra Kumar believes that makhana cultivation will bring transformative change to Bihar. “It’s the beginning of innovation in Bihar when it comes to fox nut harvesting. It will change the landscape of the state,” he says.

(Adapted from BBC.com)

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